If you wish to get the job done right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. Once upon a time, this involved costs considerable money. Now there are probably half a lots out there that are incomparably budget friendly. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is 2 separate tasks. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning items out there. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They are available in.
Take your spot rod, and put 3 solvent spots up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry patch.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent spot up the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, but if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
As a rule, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I've had one or two cases where a barrel unexpectedly started to group as I reached the end of the process, but I have actually had far more burglaries that made no difference at all.
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They work, sometimes, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but great, and given that I'm at the age where I forget things, I'm reluctant to take the chance. They're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They want them spotless. And spotless is an excellent way to go.
The steps to appropriately clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or complete disassembly. Due to the variety of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this post.
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Using a cleansing tool, such as a utility brush or cleaning up swabs, and get rid of any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be removed with a light application of cleaner and permitting it to sit for a couple of minutes prior to brushing.
One common misconception is that more is better when it comes to lubrication of your gun.
The procedure is easy. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Remember, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to avoid any solvent gathering near the actionsee Action 1.) Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you do not desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out therein. Once you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have actually been wet with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry spots down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.